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Friday, September 27, 2013

Chance Encounters and the Cathedral

So today I ran into another assistant by accident. We had met through the Bordeaux Assistant Facebook group, and I knew that she had arrived in the city yesterday. I wasn't sure when I'd be meeting her, but I thought she was living in the Foyer like me, so I'd run into her surely in the common room at some point.

I was in desperate need of groceries today, and a few odds and ends for the apartment that I've just been picking up slowly other the past week. Normally, I take the bus to Leclerc (since the bus stop is right in front of it), but there's a Carrefour behind Leclerc, and since that's where I shopped pretty much exclusively when I lived in Orléans, I decided to walk the extra 3 minutes to check it out. Well, it's a lot bigger than Leclerc, and of course I didn't know where anything was, so I resigned myself to walking up and down the aisles.

Lo' and behold, I run into a family in the aisle with all the dishes. Didn't really think anything of it, until the daughter says "Hey mom, I like this one," in perfect English. I stopped for a moment, incredulous. No British accent, no French accent. Just American English. In a town like Dax (where NO ONE speaks English), I just had to ask. It still hadn't occurred to me that it might be the girl I knew from Facebook. So I blurt out, "ARE YOU AMERICAN?!" Of course, she was; she recognized me almost instantly (she said that I "looked tall" from my Facebook photos), and so there we were. Two Facebook acquaintances, both thousands of miles from home, in a city of about 19,500 people and we're both at Carrefour. Talk about a chance encounter.

I also went to the Cathedral today since there was a free guided visit. It's a gorgeous cathedral, but really not my style. Neo-Classical, built in the 18th and 19th centuries; eh, I'm really a medieval gal. Give me a cathedral built in the 14th or 15th century. It's not that I'm religious (pas du tout -- not at all), but there's something awe inspiring about walking into a building that's THAT old. And I just love the architectural style.

But the visit, though long, was extremely informative.

pigeons on the outside of the cathedral

The facade of the church, finished in the 19th century (last thing done)
Detail of the tower

On the lower left is the guide

interior detail
The ceiling



   


The old gothic door

Jeanne d'Arc
Immaculate Conception by Murillo

A painting at the DIA.



I added in the painting at the DIA because when I first saw the painting on the left in the cathedral, I thought it was the same as the painting on the right--a painting I fell in love with on a trip to the DIA a few years ago. When I got home and looked at my old DIA photos though, I realized that they're (clearly) not actually the same painting.

I'm *thisclose* to having wifi chez moi. I went to SFR today (a phone/internet/television company--a bit like Comcast or whathaveyou) after finally getting my bank account opened and started my subscription. All I've got to do is wait for the text message telling me that my stuff is ready to be picked up; then I get to go pick up my wifi port and set up an appointment to have someone come set it up.

BUT, in addition to wifi, I will also be getting a ligne fixe ("fixed line" or house phone) on which I will have unlimited calling to the US (to mobile phones as well as house phones) all included. So that's pretty awesome. :D

I also figured out that I can sit on the bench outside the common room and get wifi, so I'll be able to check my email and stuff at least a bit this weekend.

Sunday there's the bullfighting championship of France (who knew?!) and I'm going to go check it out with maybe some of the other assistants. I am, in principle, against bullfighting, but when in Dax, do as the Dacquois do, yeah?

Other than that, it's just paperwork paperwork paperwork. And, of course, French bureaucracy is notoriously slow. First, I need my bank account (CHECK), then I need to fill out papers to apply for Social Security so I'll be covered with French healthcare, but to do that, I need to have a paystub. But we don't get paid until the end of November (we can apply to get an advance on our salary for the end of October). I also need to apply for the CAF (French housing assistance), but to do that, I need to have my social security all set. All the papers/emails/handbooks say that SS can take a month or more to complete. So....basically I'll have everything all set by the time I'm ready to come home. VIVE LA FRANCE! :D

Tuesday, September 24, 2013

My Very First Apartment (Ever)

So I ended up moving into the Foyer, which is not as bad as I expected. I think I just freaked out a little because of creepy guy following me home, but I've not seen him since (but have met a lot of nice old ladies who live in the area and go shopping at the same time that I do). I was also kind of caught up in the dream of a perfect little French flat right in centre ville (perhaps above a boulangerie or a pâtisserie.... hey, this is a dream....) with an eccentric door and tons of charm, etc, etc.... But I've got a studio that is all white (freshly painted, which I suppose is good) with green linoleum flooring, in a modern complex that's a 10 minute bus-ride from centre ville. So much for charm.

Half of my closet (oohh, look I brought too many clothes...)

The other half of my closet (still way too many clothes...)

Je me sens comme une vrai française maintenant. (I feel like a true Frenchwoman now.)

Messy desk

The window is nice, though all I can see is a pine tree.

Bed! (White walls, green linoleum floor...wasn't kidding)

Desk/kitchen table

Accidental selfie in the bathroom mirror

pretty bare kitchen cupboards

My kitchen for the year

View from the front door
So, it's not very charming, BUT the people here are really nice. Every Monday they have an atelier cuisine (cooking class) in the common room kitchen, and last night was Mexican food (fajitas, woohoo). My tummy was very grateful for something other than pasta (which is all I'd been eating since Friday night). Also, did anyone else know that you can put potato in fajitas (like bits of baked potato_ and IT IS DELICIOUS. Try it. Do it. And I also put some guacamole on the other half of my baked potato and THAT was also delicious.

Friday I ended up going to Morcenx to visit the schools I'll be teaching at. So far, it looks like a really charming town (but definitely too small for me to live in), but I spent most of the day in the schools, so I didn't get to look around much.

Mostly I kind of felt like a lost puppy following various teachers around. There wasn't really a plan other than "Meet the principals and maybe the English teachers" which: CHECK. Sort of. I met the vice principal of the high school since the principal wasn't there. But I didn't really have much of a clue as to what was going on other than that, so I ended up spending a couple hours after lunch sitting in on a French lesson (which was alright--brushed up on some of the basics).

I got a ride home with a couple of the other professors (one a painting teacher, one a science teacher, and the other one, I don't know) since most of the professors there carpool. So that was really nice of them to let me tag along and get me home. I also had lunch at the high school, and let me just say that it was DELICIOUS. And so much better than anything we serve in high schools in the US (at least that I've ever seen). (Not that i don't appreciate the junk food, but wow!) I ended up having carrot salad, duck (yeah, seriously, duck), pasta with some sort of mashed veggies (squash, I think?), bread (of course), yogurt, and some sort of.... orange-y fluffy....thing....mousse maybe? It was all pretty delicious, and all this for less than 3 euro (maybe $4).

Then I did nothing all weekend. I did some shopping Friday afternoon, and some more shopping Saturday morning. Then I went to go into the common room so I could get online and it....well, it was locked. So, no internet all weekend. I really should have gotten up and done something outside, but I ended up just watching TV shows (Catherine Tate Show and Being Human, yeah BBC).

I am still trying to figure out all the paperwork and administrative stuff, plus how to get wifi in my room so that I don't look like a creep sitting on my computer in the common room all the time. School starts in a week and I got my train ticket so that I can get there in plenty of time before my first official meeting with the high school principal.

Since we're so close to Spain, bullriding/fighting is apparently a pretty big thing here (there's an arena for it and everything)

Bathhouse (or spa, I think; still not sure)

I like taking pictures of people's houses because they are gorgeous

More pretty houses

My first meal in the apartment: pasta with pesto
Probably heading into town today; might visit the cathedral tomorrow. Not really sure what's going on. At some point I need to go to Bordeaux to get my birth certificate translated, so that will hopefully be happening this week.

À bientôt, mes amis! (See you later, friends!)

Wednesday, September 18, 2013

Exploring Dax

So, I threw myself a little afternoon pity party yesterday because I hate not being in control, so I stayed in for the afternoon and called on a couple apartments, and then made myself get up and get out of the hotel. So I went exploring.

AND YOU GUUUUUUYS.

I'll just.... casually leave these here.

All my crap on the bed, and my lovely balcony

View from my balcony of every one else's balconies. :D

The lovely construction view from my balcony (They're working on the outside of the train station)

Some little park near le vieux pont

La Fontaine Chaude -- The Warm Fountain (hot spring, I think)

Hard to see, but there's little streams of water that pour down for dog watering, hand washing, etc



The library

It's not a French city without the Palais de Justice


Some Roman ruins (I think)

More ruins at the end of the street




Foie Gras

How to eat foie gras (with bread YUM)

Lamb

Chocolate cake

Espresso, my love



Twinkling lights

Le vieux pont
I'll take some better pictures when I actually take my camera out with me (and when it isn't raining like in the last few photos).

I met a really nice lady who owns the bar that I ate at. She's got an American friend coming to town next week and she invited me to stop by to chat since her friend doesn't speak any French (and not many people here speak English).

Tomorrow I'm moving into the Foyer. It will be nice to just get unpacked (living out of a suitcase is ROUGH). So after that I'll feel a little bit freer to roam around and explore some more. There's a manga convention this weekend and then I might head up to Bordeaux next week or down to Spain. We'll see where the wind takes me.

Tuesday, September 17, 2013

Control Freak -- Bienvenue en France (In Which Katie Talks Too Much)

HELLO WONDERFUL PEOPLE!

Well, it turns out I never really did do anything interesting in New York or in Georgia for that matter. So, this is my first blog update since I came home from France a year and a half ago, and guess what??! I'M BACK IN FRANCE.

I've been accepted to be an assistant d'anglais (English Assistant) in a collège (middle school) and a lycée (high school) in a city called Morcenx (I've been recently schooled on its pronounciation: MORE-SAYNKS). As far as I can tell, it's just a tiny little blip in the middle of the forest.

I arrived yesterday, and as much as I love France, I'm not loving it here. I think most of it is the fact that, other than my job, I have NOTHING. Me, the usually over-prepared-way-in-advance control freak, has nothing sorted out. Nothing but a job and a hotel for the next two nights. Oh, and apparently, a place held for me at a Foyer de Jeunes Travailleurs (Young Workers Residence), which is really far away from where I'd need to get the train on a nearly daily basis and in a pretty iffy neighborhood (I was followed home yesterday by some pretty crazy, possibly homeless guy after I visited the place). So, I'm not crazy about it. Not to mention the fact that it's pretty expensive, and then I'd have to pay monthly for wifi on top of that (not even sure how much wifi would be). (And let's face it, I can't live without wifi. Skyping is hard in public places.)

So I'm terrified. I basically have 1 day to find something else, or else settle for the Foyer.

The trip here was alright, all things considered. Landing in Paris was seriously like coming home--all those twinkling lights saying "Bienvenue, Katherine! Vous nous avez manquez!" (Welcome, Katherine! We've missed you!"). But then it was about a 2 mile hike through the airport to get to my connecting terminal (I might be exaggerating, I have no idea how long I was walking, but it was A LONG TIME; Charles de Gaulle airport is stupidly big).

I found a Paul's right near my gate which was basically another big welcome home to France. (Angela and Maddie understand the Paul's addiction.)

Paul--the first sign that I have, in fact, successfully made it to France

And I had a pretty awesome seat on the flight to Bordeaux (exit row, so tons of legroom; unfortunately I couldn't see out any windows, which was okay since it was just rainy and gross anyway). When I got off the plane in Bordeaux is where it gets a bit hairy. I got my luggage fine, had already gone through border control in Paris, and figured out where the bus to the train station was without too much trouble. The bus ride was also alright--mostly empty, loved seeing the city. (God, I LOVE Bordeaux!)

But then I got to the train station. Mind you, I am moving here for 8 months. I will be here until May (possibly June). I am loaded down with a filled-to-bulging purse, a giant (and extremely heavy) hiking backpack (a girl needs her computer and external hard drive, yeah?), and two big rolling suitcases that weighed JUST under 50 pounds each. And I had to catch a train from Bordeaux to Dax (my final destination). So the bus dropped us off at one end of the train station. I had to walk to the other end of the station to get my ticket. I couldn't use a kiosk because I'm not sure if American cards work in them (I remember having problems with American cards last time) and they don't take cash. Besides, I wanted to get my 12-25 card (which is apparently now a 12-27 card) which is basically a discount card that you pay for (50 euro) that gets you at least 25% off all train fares (and most times it gets you 50% off). So, it's definitely worth it. But I had to wait in line with this giant backpack on my shoulders (which I'd been carrying around since Detroit--no rest for the technologically inclined). So I get my ticket and my train was set to leave in about 15-20 minutes. Perfect. At this point, I've been awake for 24 hours straight (guess who can't sleep on planes?! But I did get to listen to Fall Out Boy, my soundtrack of the summer, and watch Monsters Inc. and Monsters University). So I head out to the platform (which requires carrying all my stuff down a flight of stairs, then back up a flight of stairs in order to go under the train tracks).

When I get on the platform, I try to figure out where I've got to get on the train (I was in car 10). Usually it's pretty simple to figure out since the cars are in order, you just figure out where car 1 is, and then go from there. Except I was on the super-wonky TGV, and so instead of being in order, the cars went 10-1 and then 11-19. Yeah. Guess which end of the platform I was at?? That's right! Car 19. So I had to walk all the way down the platform (after already walking back and forth multiple times trying to figure out what the heck was going on). So, cool, I get to the right end of the platform. Train comes, I get me and all my stuff on.

Guess what, guys? NEVER EVER EVER TGV WITH LUGGAGE. DON'T DO IT.

So, I'm at the very end of the car. There's a little luggage rack with two rows just wide enough to fit 2 small suitcases. One row just wide enough for one teeny weeny suitcase. This luggage rack is supposed to serve a cabin of 16 people. Do-able? OH YEAH FRANCE. GOOD JOB. Mind you, when I get on, it's already filled. GREAT. So I put my backpack up in the cabin (there are little overhead racks, but nothing large enough for even the smallest of suitcases). Then I attempt to rearrange the luggage on the rack and am able to fit one of my suitcases on there. WOO. One to go. I thought about leaving it out near the door (since I was getting off at the first stop), but there was already a guy doing that and, when I asked if he would mind if I left my suitcase near his stuff (so it wouldn't fall over) he did NOT speak English. Or French. I don't know what he was speaking. But we continued attempting to communicate in not the same language for a bit before he seemed to suggest that there was space at the other end of the car.

So I get to drag my giant suitcase to the other end of the car, repeating "pardon, désolée" ("Excuse me, sorry") about a million times while feeling like a complete buffoon, trying desperately to explain that I'm moving, not just an inconsiderate person with WAY too much luggage. When I get to the other end of the car, the luggage things are MUCH bigger, but still mostly filled. A nice lady was sitting in the little makeshift seats there watching her luggage which she just kind of shoved in, and helped me heave my suitcase on top of the pile of suitcases and bags, and she offered to keep an eye on it for me. Excellent. Luggage all stored. 20 minutes into my hour long journey I finally get to go sit in my seat.

Luckily, I was sitting with this wonderfully nice older couple who was on their way to do the El Camino pilgrimage, which starts not too far from where I'm staying. I explained to them that I'm moving down here, and we talked for a bit (they complimented my French, yay!), but then when I told the lady I'm moving to Dax, she goes, "But you're on the wrong train!" 3 other people agree with her. 1 person says I'm right. At this point I start freaking out. It wouldn't be the first time I'd gotten transport wrong (you guys remember my boat mix-up in Venice, right??). If I didn't have the luggage, no problem. I just get off at the next stop and get a train back to Bordeaux, then get the next train to Dax (and make sure i get on the proper one this time). Embarrassing, annoying, a bit more expensive? Yeah. But not really all that big a deal. But with ALL THAT LUGGAGE? My arms were already about to fall off and I'd felt like a buffoon enough that day, without having to go through the whole thing twice more.

Luckily, we finally checked the train number on my ticket against the train number on another girl's ticket. I'm on the right train, the lady had just gotten mixed up as to where she was. I had to force myself to stay awake for another 20 minutes (can't sleep on planes, can't stay awake on trains), so that I'd have time to get my luggage from this end of the car and make it down to the other end of the car. Lather, rinse, repeat with the same awkward pushing luggage down an aisle barely wide enough for a person, trying not to hit people's elbows, feet; pardon, désolée, pardon, désolée, désolée, pardon...ad infinitum.

When I made it to the other end of the car, I get my luggage down and started talking to the nice lady who had watched my suitcase for me. She was super sweet, as were all the other women who ended up packed like sardines waiting to get off in Dax. (If anyone dares to tell me that the French are mean, inhospitable, and/or rude, I will punch you in the face with no regrets. The French are, bar-none, the absolute nicest people I have ever met.) My French was complimented once more (huzzah!) and a very nice lady who had been a French-assistant in Spain (and ended up staying in Spain for 10 years) helped me get one of my suitcases down since she was just getting off for a smoke.

By this time I'm parched, so I grabbed a bottle of water at the train station and headed out to my hotel which was, thankfully, not even a 5 minute walk from the train station. Unfortunately, the hotel has no elevator (OH NO), so I still had to lug my stupid suitcases up 2 flights of stairs to my room. Cue free wifi that doesn't work in my room (the signal's not strong enough to reach up to the third floor). So, feeling absolutely disgusting after almost 18 hours of travel, I quickly washed up and changed and headed out into the city for my meeting with the Foyer. It was about a 45-60 minute walk from my hotel to the Foyer through the city center (SO AWESOME) and some not so nice looking neighborhoods (NOT SO AWESOME). Finally, I got there to meet the staff and see the room (or so I thought). Turns out, they're holding the room for me, and were expecting me to move in on Monday. O_O They were pretty understanding about it all, and I like the staff. So I might end up there, but we'll see. I'd like something a little closer to the city center if I can.

On the way home, I was able to catch the bus which goes pretty much directly from the Foyer to the train station, but was followed by the creepy, crazy, possibly homeless guy. I was able to walk fast enough once I got off the bus, that I turned the corner and got into my hotel before he could see me. (When I got up to my room, I looked out my window/balcony and saw him walk past maybe 5 minutes later, headed to the train station--which is where I think he thought I was going). So that was not so good. Upon arriving back at my hotel, I finally had time to send my parents a message saying that I was not, in fact, dead or missing, but had arrived safely.

And then, after being awake for nearly 30 hours straight, I passed out.

This morning I wanted to head over to Morcenx to see the city I'll be teaching in, but first I had to get a mobile phone to stay connected here, which meant walking to the city center (about 15 minutes from my hotel) to the Orange store. And I stopped by the Office de Tourisme (Tourism office) to see if they had a map of Morcenx (they didn't, but they gave me the number of the mairie (mayor's office) in Morcenx). They also gave me a list of some available apartments in Dax, so I've got to call on that.

When I finally got back to the train station, I was informed that the train tracks between here and Morcenx are being worked on (GREAT), so there's no train. Only a bus. And they directed me to the website. There is only one bus a day. And the return bus leaves Morcenx for Dax before the bus from Dax even arrives at Morcenx. So doing a day trip out there is impossible by public transport until after September 27th.

Luckily, I talked to the English professor in Morcenx, and she's trying to arrange for one of her colleagues to take me back to Dax on Thursday (so I can get the bus out, and then get a ride home). So I'll at least be able to go see the school. And she's having the school search for a place for me to stay in Morcenx (either a temporary thing so I can have some more time to search for an apartment or something for the year). The professor is really nice, and she seems to be willing to do a lot to help me out, which will be good during the school year since I'd ideally like to get an English club going, and maybe even a theater group so that we can have the students put on a play in English; having her on my side would make those things easier if the students want them.

So, things are pretty crazy at the moment. Or at least, they feel crazy. But Dax is actually a pretty nice city. There's a manga convention this weekend that I might try to go to so that I can meet some nerdy people and there seems to be a lot going on--there's a museum, and quite a few shows this month, and there's a movie theater around here somewhere I think. The city center is absolutely beautiful and is, of course, all walking (no cars in the city center), so it's very agreeable. Tons of restaurants, shopping, etc.

Now, after talking/typing all your ears/eyes off, it's time to make some calls on some apartments. Wish me luck that I'll find something! Hopefully I get into somewhere soon and feel more free to travel around/explore more so that future updates are less text-heavy.